Bariloche

The weather has gone from cold and drizzly to full fledged summer in the past day or so.
On Friday I went on the boat trip that I wrote about. It was really beautiful. I am so glad that I didn´t pay the $160 to do the boat-bus tour from Puerto Varas because the tour I did on Friday was essentially the Argentinian end of the same tour for $15. Granted I was one of the few people under 50 on the boat, but it was nice. We stopped in an area in the ntnl park for a short hike up to some waterfalls and then the boat went across to the other side of the lake for lunch. I ended up taking a trail around the lake instead of getting back on the boat. It was fantastic and not as wet as people had warned.
The sun came out for the boat ride back home. Pictures do not do this place justice.
Yesterday, after little sleep do to a log-sawer in my room, I went by bus to El Bolson. It is a town about 70 miles south of here and is known as the hippy capital of Argentina. It is a 'nuclear free zone' and has a great artisan fair every Saturday with booths taking up several city blocks. I went in search of crafts and soy protein. I left with only crafts. I am still getting used to the siesta deal and couldn´t get any soya burgers at the time that my stomach was asking for them. Cocina closed. Oh well. I am getting my share of cheese on this trip with my primary options being pizza, pasta and empanadas. Good thing the veganism went out the window years ago. It is actually not that hard to be veggie in Patagonia as long as you aren´t looking for variety.
The bus ride to El Bolson was definitely the highlight of the day. The entire ride is jaw-dropping. There are ridges running north-south and every saddle and east-west drainage is a different color of rock. Gray, green, slate, orange, tan.... Then the lower slopes were bright green and packed with shrubs and small trees. Every now and then would be a hole in the greenery and the earth opened up into a waterfall. I may have missed ski season and I may be too early for true summer, but I am definitely here during the peak waterfall season. They are everywhere!!
Today I pretty much just walked around town and took a gondola ride up a hill with a view of town, the lakes and mountains. There were some small hikes at the top. I have pretty much seen all sides of this town. The boat ride on Friday left from the western-most point which has an exclusive hotel. The bus ride went past lakefront homes that must be owned by the elite of South America. Most were new with super modern architecture and beautiful grounds. Often the house was somehow built into the hillside or otherwise included in the scenary. The way out of town to El Bolson yesterday went through the exact opposite end of town with little shanty houses and tons of garbage and dogs.
I upgraded myself to a private room in the hostel last night after the snoring incident. I have a 13 hour overnight bus ride to Puerto Madryn on the Atlantic Coast tonight, so I figure I could afford one night of luxury in the top floor, private bath, double bed suite for $20. No seriously. $20.
I am looking forward to penguins and whales in Puerto Madryn. It is only the Atlantic coast. I am also looking forward to making some friends. I´ve become a bit of a hermit in Bariloche. I was really lucky to geniunely like the first few people I hung out with in previous towns. I think it spoiled me because the people at this hostel are not doing it for me.